Bell & Ross (B&R) is a French luxury watch manufacturer producing watches in Switzerland.
Beginning with the BR-01 in 2005, the company began producing square watches meant to resemble instruments found in 20th century aircraft cockpits. These square-cased BR models became its most well-known design.
The Bell & Ross BR 05 integrated bracelet was introduced in 2019 with the chronograph version in 2020. This model represents a combination of design attributes from several of its existing collections:
- the rounded-corner case shape of the BR01 collection,
- the round dial and a square frame,
- the signature Arabic numerals,
- the four securing screws on the front of the watch,
- crown guards.
New design features include:
- extensions of the case flowing into the first center link of an integrated bracelet.
The BR 05 is gently steered away from its aviation tool-watch predecessors and designed to reach a wider audience, and appeal to a broader taste.
When I first saw the Specht & Sohne (S&S) SP0004 homage, I was drawn to it by the degree of reproduction. It was incredulous to note that initially this watch had a TMI VD53 movement. The VD53 requires two chronograph sub-dials as the central seconds pointer is for running seconds. To keep the visual reproduction accurate, S&S blanked out the crucial chrono seconds sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position, leaving only chrono minutes sub-dial at the 9 o'clock position. So when one started the chronograph, 'nothing' seemed to happen until minutes went by, literally!
However, PD then sensibly changed that to the VK63 movement wherein the central seconds pointer is now for chrono seconds and the sub-dial at the 9 o'clock position records chrono minutes. The sub-dial at the 3 o'clock position continues to be a 24-hour indicator. One can live with a watch without a running seconds pointer but never without one for its chrono seconds!
The SP0004 case width matches B&R's chronograph model at 42mm. With a lug-to-lug size of 50mm, and thickness of 12.8mm, this is quite a big boy watch! However, thanks to the revised design of the B&R BR 05, this watch favours being a style statement, rather than a utilitarian one.
The case and bezel are brush-finished with only the edge of the bezel and four securing screws polished. The flat sapphire crystal retains the 20th century flight instrument appearance.
The dial has been reproduced very well with a sunburst finish, two sunken sub-dials at 3 and 9 o'clock with colour differentiating borders mirroring the shape of the bezel - square with rounded corners. The rounded date window located between the 4 & 5 o'clock hour markers is also exactly reproduced, albeit for its standard black & white date dial, unlike the B&R which has a colour-coded background to match the dial, and the date in white. Hour markers are applied and so are the with Arabic numerals at 12 & 6 o'clock. The minute track is printed with the seconds count printed on the chapter ring at each hour marker. Hour & minute pointers and hour markers are lumed.
The rear case cover bearing the manufacturer's logo and key attributes of the watch, is secured with four screws, all brush-finished.
Following my preference of leather/silicon straps over stainless steel bracelets, I chose this model, once again for the dial-matched, colour-coded belt that lends greater colour continuity to this timepiece and a flowing form around the wrist.
The integrated belt is secured to the case with screws rather than spring-pins. The signed, single arm fold-over clasp is also brush-finished and released by two pushers.
So if you would like to have a Bell & Ross BR 05 homage on your wrist, there is no better option than the Specht & Sohne SP0004 homage.
I am pleased with the sales and post-sales service offered by Dream Watches, which over my various purchases, has always been very prompt and dependable.